A 3-D skeletonised experienceLinde Werdelin’s evolution in Haute Horlogerie
Haute horlogerie as we have come to know it is evolving. Watches are changing shape, they cease being flat objects but rather they are taking form and evolving into 3-Dimensional models of desire. Linde Werdelin watches and instruments have made a mark in the watch making industry when created the first fully skeletonised watch, the SpidoLite. Two years later, Linde Werdelin is pushing the boundaries of design and construction even further and is announcing the launch of a 3-Dimensional skeletonised experience called, SpidoSpeed.
With a strong reference to the SpidoLite range and inspired by the racing car industry, the SpidoSpeed is Linde Werdelin’s first chronograph model. It features a new and more complex skeletonised steel case construction with weight reduction technology while always maintaining integrity of strength. That and a multiple-layered dial construction add to creating an all round 3-Dimensional experience.
The reference to the racing car industry is evident from the detail of the material used on the dial (previously used as dashboards in racing cars from the ‘40s), to the small holes visible on the sub-dials resembling the brake discs and the round cut-out details on the strap as a reference to the driving gloves.
“I wanted the SpidoSpeed to be a complete 3-Dimensional experience no matter the angle you look at it from”, says Morten Linde. “Whether this is the ten-layered dial, the skeletonised case, the see-through case-back or the strap. I wanted this model to be one holistic 3-Dimensional experience for the owner.”
Case construction
Although of a similar design philosophy as the SpidoLite model, the SpidoSpeed is a fine example of pure craftsmanship. A total of 32 components have been artfully and meticulously put together in a three part construction. The first part consists of a cylindrical chamber, which sits inside the third part and locks on the case- back (second part).
Perfecting the construction of the case has been a two-year long procedure. The skeletonised part of the case has been the most complicated and time consuming part to produce due to its shape complexity. This meant the drilling of the case had to be done using two different sophisticated 5-axis machines. Setting up the 5-axis machine alone, is almost a day’s work! The height of the case has been raised to 3mm more than the SpidoLite one, allowing space for the chronograph pushers to be incorporated. This more open case construction boasts reduced use of material while not compromising on the sturdy and water resistant construction.
The chronograph pushers are cleverly hidden at 2 and 4 o’clock on the side of the case and well protected from sports activities while also allowing the attachment of both The Rock (ski instrument) and The Reef (dive instrument). “Conceiving and developing a completely new case construction, pushers and dial for the SpidoSpeed justifies the two year long procedure. Creating an architecturally beautiful and interesting watch is difficult to achieve,” comments Morten Linde.
Dial
The dial has been constructed into two parts, following the same design philosophy as the case and adding depth to the watch when reading time. This depth is also very much achieved with the use of different colour and surface combinations, also a strong reference to the racing car industry. “Adding as many as ten layers on the dial alone accentuates the 3-Dimentional experience. The ability of the eye to focus on millimetres makes the SpidoSpeed experience most interesting,” says Morten Linde.
The perlage base dial part (lower part) carries the Linde Werdelin logo while atop of it sits the top dial part (upper part) with the printing of indexes and numerals as well as the chronograph dials of hours, minutes and seconds. The base dial has been drilled where the sub-dials sit, a reference to the break discs of a racing car. The sub-dials are designed and placed at the bottom part of the dial to maximise dial legibility. The hours sub-dial located at 6 o’clock has been given most emphasis, being the main sub-dial while the minutes are at 3 and the seconds at 9o’clock. The letter “R” at 4o’clock on the hours sub-dial, stands for “The Rock” or “The Reef” and indicates how long it takes to fully charge the instrument.
Function & Movement
Racing cars and chronographs have always been interlinked. With the inspiration stemming from the racing car industry producing a chronograph is a natural evolution and a complement to the existing Linde Werdelin collection. So the choice of the model name was not made at random. The name bears two words best characterising the watch.
“Designing a chronograph,” says Morten Linde, “is a pleasantly challenging exercise. A chronograph to me is an iconic timepiece. There is so much information that needs to be incorporated in such a little space that maintaining legibility and functionality while still looking interesting sums up, for me, the challenge in hand.”
Powered by a Concepto movement (2251 calibre) partially visible through the sapphire crystal case-back, the SpidoSpeed has a specially designed rotor also graphically aligned with the SpidoSpeed case. On choosing a Concepto movement for the new model, Jorn Werdelin said “Concepto movements have attracted a lot of interest in the world of watch making in the last years for their quality, durability, reliability and versatility in terms of finishing and complications. It was very important for us to have an integrated chronograph for the SpidoSpeed so the pushers and the crown would be at the same level.”
Morten Linde: “The most intriguing part of the SpidoSpeed is what is missing from it.”
With the launch of the SpidoSpeed, Linde Werdelin inaugurates a way of presenting and numbering its watch ranges. Still keeping the concept of the limited editions, Jorn and Morten, inspired from the publishing world decided to apply the principle of editions to the LW world of watches. "The SpidoSpeed will be a numbered series starting with series A of a 100 pieces” says Jorn Werdelin.
The first edition (A) of the SpidoSpeed will retail at €11 760 and will be available to order in May on LindeWerdelin.com or from any LW authorised retailer.
Background to LINDE WERDELIN
Launched in 2006 by Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin, LINDE WERDELIN watches with attachable dive and ski instruments have redefined the world of luxury sports watches by bringing together the best of Swiss watch craftsmanship with innovative Danish design and avant-garde technology. By combining both analogue and digital technologies, LINDE WERDELIN, produces and manufactures the ultimate sports watches and precision instruments, The Rock and The Reef instruments securely clip on top of the watch to amplify the sporting experience whether in the mountains or in the sea respectively. LINDE WERDELIN is the New Spirit in the luxury watch making industry fusing the urban life with a cool attitude and the free spirit of the mountains and the sea. LINDE WERDELIN specialises in producing small numbered watch series starting with series A of 100 pieces.